Back from the center. Bought two more glass kettles, thus completing our set of six. Also bought two hamones de bola: a caramel-glazed, pear-shaped one and a sugar-glazed, round one. Threw in a couple of quesos de bola as well.

From February through October, nine months a year, we buy regular ham in Quiapo anytime we like, without having to queue up. We don't buy that ham in December because, for some reason, that ham tastes just like ordinary, dinner ham.

We have come to associate hamones de bola with the holidays. They are made only during the holidays, are sold only during the holidays, have a distinct, "holiday" taste, and, surprise, surprise, they are available only in December.